What is a Dart?

A dart is a garment construction technique used to shape flat fabric so that it fits the three-dimensional curves of the body. A wedge-shaped section of fabric is folded and stitched along a tapered line with the stitching narrowing to a point.

Darts remove fullness from selected areas of a garment and are commonly used around the bust, waist, hips and shoulders to create a more fitted shape.

What does a dart do?

Fabric starts out essentially flat, while the human body obviously isn't.

Darts are one of the simplest ways of turning that flat piece of fabric into a three-dimensional shape.

By folding part of the fabric and sewing a tapered seam, a pattern maker can remove excess fullness from one area while allowing additional room where it's needed.

This helps a garment follow the contours of the body rather than simply hanging straight from it.

What does a dart look like?

Before it's sewn, a dart is usually marked on a garment pattern by two lines that meet at a point, creating a long triangular or wedge-like shape.

The fabric is folded so the two dart legs meet and is then stitched from the wider end towards the dart point.

After sewing, the excess fabric generally remains on the inside of the garment and is pressed into position.

So importantly: A dart is usually folded and sewn, the wedge isn't simply cut out of the garment.

Where are darts used?

Darts can appear in many different parts of a garment depending on where shaping is required.

Common examples include:

Bust darts

Bust darts provide additional shape and room around the bust.

They may extend from the side seam, waist, shoulder or other positions towards the bust point.

Waist darts

Waist darts remove excess fabric around the waist while allowing additional room through the bust or hips.

They're extremely common in fitted dresses, skirts and trousers.

Back darts

Darts through the back of a garment can help create a closer fit through the waist and torso.

You'll see these in some fitted shirts, dresses and corporate garments.

Shoulder darts

Shoulder darts can be used to create shape through the upper body, although they're less visible in many contemporary garments.

Are darts cut out of the fabric?

Usually, no.

The wedge-shaped area shown on a sewing pattern indicates the amount of fabric that will be folded away and stitched.

Once the dart has been sewn, the folded fabric, sometimes called the dart intake, generally remains on the inside of the garment and is pressed to one side or in a particular direction.

In some specialised construction methods, particularly with very large darts or bulky fabrics, excess material may be trimmed. But that's not what defines a dart.

Why do darts end in a point?

The dart gradually tapers to nothing so the fabric can transition smoothly from the shaped area back into the rest of the garment.

If a dart simply stopped abruptly, it could create an obvious bump or ridge.

The tapered point allows the garment to form a smooth three-dimensional curve.

That's particularly important around areas such as the bust.

Are darts visible from the outside?

Yes, but usually only as a seam line.

Because the excess fabric is folded to the inside, you normally see a single tapered line of stitching or shaping from the exterior.

In a well made garment, the dart should integrate neatly into the overall design rather than looking like fabric has simply been pinched together.

Dart vs seam

They're related, but they're not the same thing.

A seam usually joins two or more separate pieces of fabric together.

A dart shapes a single piece of fabric by folding part of it and stitching that fold.

Both techniques can be used to shape a garment.

Dart vs princess seam

A dart removes fullness within a single pattern piece.

A princess seam divides the garment into separate shaped panels. The curves of those panels provide the shaping that might otherwise have been achieved using darts.

That's why you'll often see fitted dresses or jackets constructed either with obvious darts or with long princess seams.

Can a dart be moved?

Yes and this is a really interesting bit of pattern making.

A dart can often be repositioned while retaining essentially the same overall shaping.

For example, shaping required around the bust might originate from the:

• side seam
• waist
• shoulder
• neckline
• armhole

Pattern makers use techniques commonly known as dart manipulation to reposition that fullness.

This allows designers to change the appearance and construction of a garment without necessarily changing its fundamental fit.

Can darts become design features?

Absolutely.

Darts began as a practical method of shaping clothing, but designers can manipulate them into much more decorative features.

They can be incorporated into: seams, gathers, pleats, tucks and other design lines.

Sometimes the shaping remains almost invisible; other times it becomes an intentional part of the garment's appearance.

Are darts used in trousers?

Yes. Darts in trousers are commonly used around the waist, particularly at the front or back, to accommodate the difference between the waist and hips.

For example, the back of tailored trousers may contain darts running down from the waistband. These remove excess fabric at the waist while retaining the room needed through the seat and hips.

Are darts used in uniforms?

Very much so, particularly in women's corporate clothing.

You'll see darts used in:

• fitted shirts and blouses
• corporate dresses
• skirts
• tailored trousers
• jackets
• vests

They're particularly useful where a uniform needs to maintain a clean, tailored silhouette while following the shape of the wearer.

Two shirts can have similar measurements and fabric but fit quite differently depending on where and how darts have been incorporated into their patterns.

Darts and bodices

Darts are one of the classic techniques used to shape a bodice.

Bust and waist darts allow flat fabric to accommodate the curves of the upper body while controlling how closely the garment fits.

Darts vs pleats

A dart and a pleat both involve manipulating excess fabric, but they serve different purposes.

A dart tapers to a point and is primarily used to create three-dimensional shaping.

A pleat is a fold or series of folds that generally retains or controls fullness rather than eliminating it entirely.