What is a Godet?

A godet is a shaped piece of fabric inserted into a seam or opening in a garment to add extra width, fullness and movement. Godets are usually triangular or wedge shaped and are most commonly used towards the lower part of skirts and dresses to create flare without adding fullness around the waist or hips.

Godets can be made from the same fabric as the garment for a subtle effect or from a contrasting fabric to create a decorative design feature.

What does a godet look like?

A godet usually looks like a triangle or wedge of fabric.

The narrow point is inserted higher into a seam or slit, while the wider section opens towards the hem.

Once sewn into the garment, the additional fabric creates extra circumference and volume towards the bottom.

This allows a garment to remain relatively fitted through the upper section while becoming progressively fuller below.

What is the purpose of a godet?

Godets can be both functional and decorative.

Functionally, they add:

• extra width
• freedom of movement
• flare
• volume
• fullness around the hem

From a design perspective, they can also change the silhouette of a garment or introduce contrasting colours, textures or fabrics.

Where are godets used?

Godets are most strongly associated with skirts and dresses, although the construction technique can be used in other garments.

They're commonly inserted into:

Skirt seams – creating additional flare towards the hem.

Dress seams – allowing a relatively fitted dress to open into a fuller skirt.

Slits – where a godet can fill an opening while providing extra movement.

Sleeves – less commonly, godet-like inserts can be used to create additional shape or volume.

You'll also find godets in some dancewear and performance garments because the additional fabric can create dramatic movement.

How does a godet add fullness?

The clever part is where the extra fabric is added.

If additional fabric is gathered into a waistband, the extra fullness begins at the waist.

A godet works differently.

Because the narrow point can begin further down the garment and gradually widen towards the hem, it adds volume only where it is needed.

This means a skirt can remain smooth and relatively fitted through the waist and hips while having substantially more room and movement around the legs.

Godet vs gore: what's the difference?

A godet is an additional piece of fabric inserted into a seam or opening to create extra fullness.

A gore is one of the main shaped panels used to construct the garment itself.

For example, a gored skirt might be constructed from six tapered panels joined together from waist to hem.

A godet skirt might have additional triangular pieces inserted between panels towards the bottom.

So:

Gore = structural panel.
Godet = inserted panel adding fullness.

Godet vs pleat

Godets and pleats can both create additional fullness but they achieve it very differently.

A pleat folds existing fabric back onto itself.

A godet introduces an entirely separate piece of fabric.

Pleats can therefore be controlled or released to create volume, while a godet physically increases the amount of fabric in that section of the garment.

Are godets always triangular?

Not necessarily.

A classic godet is often described as triangular but the precise shape can vary according to the effect required.

Some are narrow wedges, while others may have a curved or rounded lower edge and resemble a section of a circle.

The wider the godet becomes towards the hem, the greater the potential flare and fullness it can introduce.

Can godets be made from a different fabric?

Absolutely. If a designer wants the godet to disappear into the garment, it can be made from the same fabric and colour.

Alternatively, contrasting fabric can turn the construction detail into a prominent design feature.

Godets can introduce:

• contrasting colours
• prints
• lace
• sheer fabric
• different textures

The insert may then only become particularly visible as the wearer moves and the garment opens out.

Do godets affect movement?

Yes and that's one of their major advantages.

Adding width towards the hem provides more room for the legs to move without necessarily making the entire garment loose.

This can be useful in a relatively fitted skirt or dress where the designer wants to maintain a streamlined silhouette while providing greater freedom of movement.

Godets and skirt shapes

Godets can dramatically change the shape of a skirt.

A skirt can be fairly straight through the hips before godets introduce flare lower down.

Using multiple godets around a garment can create a much fuller, flowing hem.

The number, position, length and width of the godets all influence the final silhouette.

This is why two godet skirts can look completely different despite using the same basic construction principle.

Are godets used in uniforms?

Yes, although you're more likely to encounter them in corporate dresses and skirts than in everyday workwear.

A godet can be particularly useful where a skirt needs a relatively tailored appearance while still providing sufficient movement for the wearer.

In uniform design, they're one of many construction techniques used to balance appearance, fit and practical movement.