What is Twill?

Twill is a type of woven fabric construction recognised by its distinctive diagonal lines or ribs. The pattern is created by passing the weft yarn over and under multiple warp yarns in a repeating sequence, with each row offset from the one before it.

This creates the characteristic diagonal pattern seen on the surface of twill fabrics.

Twill is widely used for workwear, uniforms, trousers, jackets and casual clothing because the construction can produce fabrics that are strong, durable and resistant to everyday wear. One of the best known examples of twill is denim.

How is twill fabric made?

Twill is one of the major types of woven fabric construction.

In woven fabrics, two sets of yarn intersect:

Warp yarns run lengthwise through the fabric.

Weft yarns run across the fabric from side to side.

In a basic plain weave, the weft typically passes over one warp yarn and under the next.

Twill uses a different repeating sequence. A yarn might pass over two and under one, for example, with that sequence shifted across each successive row.

The offset creates the diagonal line that makes twill so recognisable.

Why does twill have diagonal lines?

Those diagonal lines aren't printed onto the fabric they're created by the weave itself.

Because each row of yarn is offset from the previous row, the points where the yarns cross form a diagonal progression across the surface.

These diagonal ridges are sometimes called wales.

Depending on the weave, the diagonal can run in either direction and can be subtle or very prominent.

Is twill a fabric or a fibre?

Twill describes a weave, not a fibre.

Twill can be made from:

• cotton
• polyester
• wool
• viscose
• synthetic fibres
• blends of different fibres

So cotton twill and polyester/cotton twill can both use the same basic weave while having quite different performance characteristics.

Is denim a twill fabric?

Yes. Denim is a type of twill fabric.

Traditional denim uses a twill construction with coloured warp yarns, typically indigo and lighter weft yarns.

The twill structure helps create denim's familiar diagonal appearance and contributes to the fabric's durability.

So while denim is twill, not all twill is denim.

Chinos, work trousers and uniform garments can all use twill fabrics without looking anything like a pair of jeans.

Does twill have a front and back?

Usually, yes. The two sides of a twill fabric can have noticeably different appearances, particularly when different coloured yarns are used.

The face of the fabric generally displays the intended twill pattern most clearly, while the reverse may show a different balance of warp and weft yarns.

How obvious that difference is depends on the particular twill construction.

Is twill durable?

Twill fabrics are often chosen for applications requiring good durability and resistance to wear.

The weave can allow yarns to be packed relatively closely while still creating a fabric with useful flexibility.

This makes twill particularly common in clothing exposed to regular wear, including: work trousers, cargo pants, jackets, uniforms, chinos and denim.

However, twill construction alone doesn't determine durability.

A lightweight fashion twill and a heavyweight workwear twill might share the same basic weave but perform very differently.

Fibre content, yarn quality, fabric weight and finishing all matter.

Does twill wrinkle?

Twill fabrics can often be less prone to obvious creasing than comparable plain-weave fabrics, partly because of their construction and the way the yarns interact.

Crease resistance also depends heavily on fibre composition and fabric finishing.

A polyester-rich uniform twill may have excellent easy-care properties, while a cotton twill may still crease considerably.

Does twill hide stains?

The diagonal surface texture of some twill fabrics can make minor marks, creases and everyday wear less visually obvious than on an extremely smooth fabric.

However, twill isn't inherently stain resistant.

Actual stain resistance depends on the fibre and any stain-resistant treatments or finishes applied to the fabric.

A coffee spill remains stubbornly unaware of textile terminology. 😂

Is twill water resistant?

Not necessarily. A densely woven twill may provide greater resistance to wind or light moisture than a very open weave, but twill construction does not automatically make a fabric water resistant or waterproof.

Water resistance may instead come from:

• a very dense construction
• the fibre used
• a durable water-repellent treatment
• a coating
• a membrane or other fabric technology

So if a workwear garment needs genuine protection from rain, the word twill on its own doesn't tell you enough.

Is twill breathable?

Again, it depends. A lightweight cotton twill can be reasonably breathable, while a dense heavyweight polyester/cotton workwear twill may allow considerably less airflow.

Breathability is influenced by fibre, fabric density, weight, weave and finishing, rather than simply whether the fabric uses a twill weave.

What is cotton twill?

Cotton twill simply means cotton yarn has been woven using a twill construction.

It is commonly used for:

• chinos
• trousers
• jackets
• skirts
• caps
• bags
• casual clothing
• some uniforms and workwear

Cotton contributes its familiar natural-fibre characteristics while the twill weave creates the distinctive diagonal structure.

What is polyester/cotton twill?

A polyester/cotton twill combines the two fibres within a twill-woven fabric.

The aim is often to balance different characteristics, for example, cotton's feel and moisture absorbency with some of polyester's durability, quicker drying and easy-care performance.

You'll encounter these blends constantly in workwear and uniforms.

What clothing is made from twill?

Twill is enormously versatile.

Common examples include:

• work pants
• cargo pants
• chinos
• jeans
• jackets
• work shirts
• skirts
• corporate trousers
• uniforms
• caps
• aprons

It also appears outside clothing in products such as bags and other textile goods.

Why is twill popular for workwear?

Twill is extremely common in workwear because it can create robust fabrics that combine durability, structure and useful flexibility.

Polyester/cotton twills in particular are widely used for work trousers, cargo pants, shorts and jackets.

Different weights can then be selected depending on the intended environment, from lighter uniform garments through to considerably heavier-duty workwear.

And because twill is a construction rather than a fibre, manufacturers can adjust fibre blends, yarns, weight and finishes to create fabrics for very different jobs.

Twill vs plain weave

The main difference is the way the yarns cross.

In a plain weave, warp and weft yarns usually alternate over and under one another, creating a simple criss-cross construction.

In a twill weave, the crossing pattern is staggered across successive rows, creating the characteristic diagonal line.

The resulting fabrics can therefore have quite different appearance, flexibility, drape and performance even when made from the same fibre.

Twill and fabric drape

Twill construction can also influence how a fabric hangs and moves, but as we established on our What is Drape? page, weave is only one part of the equation.

A lightweight viscose twill may be beautifully fluid.

A heavyweight cotton workwear twill may be substantially more structured.

Both are twill.